I have finally decided on the colour combination: The wams will be blue with black slashing and the sleeves will be black with blue lining. You won't see much of the blue, but at least on the upper sleeves the slashes will be lined with the blue so when the linen twists or moves, you catch a glimpse of the blue.
Okay, I have diagram from another German landsknecht/Renaissance costumer from the WAY BACK machine on how to make the iconical slash/puff sleeve. I don't even think she teaches this class anymore, but I still am referring to her handout for construction theories. Her process is a 4 layer sleeve.
- Lining- self explanatory, it also safeguards the stitching to the inner sleeve from repeated wear;
- Inner sleeve - this is the base structure. It is the actual size and length of the arm; the puff sleeve is anchored to the inner sleeve;
- Puff sleeve - this is the white "false sleeve" that is supposed to look like an actual undershirt (hemd) poking through the slashes. It is longer and wider than the inner sleeve so it'll have form and shape under the Outer sleeve;
- Outer sleeve - this is the fashion fabric, this is typically the wool or velvet that you would see slashed. Because of it's fulled nature, there was a need for an outer sleeve lining, but because I am using linen, I plan to line the upper portion of the outer sleeve for more rigidity.
Okay brainstorm over.